Today we walked around the Medina in Fez, the old walled city. If you’ve never been in an old city, you need to imagine a place with not a square inch of public dirt or grass. The cobbled lanes have narrow low gutters on either side, and shops and doorways…

I hadn’t prepared myself for Morocco smelling like Africa, too—that sweet, earthy, dusty smell of sand, vegetation, and fires. As soon as I step off the plane, I take whole lungfuls of that sweet air, smiling as I saunter down the stairs of the gangway onto the tarmac. This land….